walking nicely on leash
What a joy it is to have a dog that walks nicely on his/her leash! Part of the reason you got a dog is to enjoy being around it. A companion, a loyal friend. But, sometimes it’s not all rainbows and butterflies. Sometimes having a dog can be frustrating, and that’s okay to admit it. I love my dogs more than most people! But, there are some areas that we still need to work on too. They are not little robots. They are dogs. They have their own minds and instincts that kick in. They are not born understanding that they should walk at your side (or at minimum, simply not pull you). Some breeds are going to get this concept better/faster than others. Some breeds, like Huskies, have been bred to think on their own - While at the front of the sled, pulling it! Dogs love action, they love to run. If you have a young dog, walking at your side might possibly be the most boring thing (no offense, but it might be!). I know when my children were younger, if they were moving they were running! It’s hard for dogs and kids to move like slow grown-ups. So, it’s our job to make it fun and interesting for them!
It doesn’t matter if you’re starting off with an 8 week old puppy, or a 2 year dog. You can do this! Have a positive mindset and you’ll really get somewhere!! Here’s what you’ll need to get started. Don’t worry, it’s not much at all.
Collar - You’ll want a reliable collar, one that they can’t slip out of (even if they pull backwards) and one that won’t accidentally unsnap while you’re walking. I like a regular ‘ol buckle collar, or a martingale collar.
Leash - A regular leather or nylon leash that is 4-6’ long. Please please don’t use a retractable leash. Like, ever. Okay, if you want to use it in the yard just to let your dog out to go potty, that’s okay. But never-ever on walks!
Treats - Super amazing treats! I like to use cut up cheese, hot dogs, chicken, steak (without seasonings). Really use the stuff they can’t possibly resist. There are some good freeze-dried treats on the market. Mix it up. Have about 4-5 different types of treats in your pocket or treat pouch. This way your dog won’t get bored, and never knows which treat they are going to get. Have plenty of treats because when you first start teaching your dog to walk nicely, you’re going to use treats galore!
Okay, that’s it! Yep that’s it! Believe me, you could spend hundreds of dollars at the pet store on fancy contraptions for walking your dog (and some of you may end up needing a little extra help with training tools - I’ve listed some below in this article). But for starting out, these will do just fine.
Let’s talk about where to practice first. You’re going to want to start inside your house. Yep! Inside! That might seem weird.. Putting your leash on your dog and gathering your treats, just to take a walk inside your house. But, it makes perfect sense. We always want to start off training new behaviors or commands where there are little to no distractions. So, why on earth would we start teaching our dogs something important, like “heel” outside - Where all of the distractions are? Let’s take baby steps. You have your dog’s whole life ahead of him. Start off on the right paw.
So, you have your dog leashed up and your treats ready. I like to walk with my dog on my left side because that’s what I’m used to. I have fun doing dog events and they always involve your dog on your left. You can choose to do one side or the other, or you can teach your dog to walk on either side - Which is great! What we want to avoid is our DOGS deciding which side to walk on. When that happens you’ll get a dog that zig-zag’s in front of you, possibly tripping you or stopping right in front of you. So, for now, for starting off, pick on side.
You can use your treat to lure your dog to your side. Don’t move your body to get to your dog’s side, let your dog do the moving. Remember, we are the ones training our dogs, haha! If your dog is on your LEFT side, keep your treats in your LEFT hand. Your leash will cross over your body and be held in your RIGHT hand. This may seem awkward at first, but once you get going, you’ll see how helpful it is. The reason we want our treats on the same side as our dog is because then we can simply angle our hand down to treat our dog when he’s in the right place. If I were to have my treats in my RIGHT hand, and my dog on my LEFT side, I will always be reaching over my body to treat my dog. I can bet that my dog is going to lean in front of me to get the treat, and I’m always going to be angling my body over to reach to my dog to treat him. You’ll see this in the video and it will make more sense. Also, if your treats are on the same side as your dog, when you reach down to treat him you’ll always be treating him while he is in the correct spot. Verses leaning over to treat him and then accidentally treating him when he is taking a step in front of you to grab at the treat from your opposite hand. So, remember - Keep your treats on the same side as your dog! It’s super helpful!
To start off you’re going to literally take one step and treat your dog. One step and treat. One step and treat. This constant reminder will help your dog understand that when he moves with you, and alongside you, he will get rewarded. Dogs learn very quickly that they get a treat for what they are doing.
You’re just going to do 2-3 of these “one step” movements at a time and then give your dog a short mental break. Maybe it’s petting them and telling them how smart they are, or it’s whipping out a tug rope and playing tug for a few seconds! Keep your dog engaged. The happier they are, the more they will want to walk with you!
In practicing this, you’ll find that your dog may start to look up at you between treats - This is AWESOME! This is exactly and totally what you want! If you find your dog looking up at you (without you asking him to), reward him for that for sure! This positive engagement is what we all strive for with our pups!
Ideally your leash will be loose. A good “U” in the leash is what we like to see. It’s some slack, but not dragging, and certainly not tight.
Keep your training sessions short and fun. A couple minutes here and there. You’ll start to find that your dog gets excited when he sees the leash come out!
Once you’ve practiced this “one-step” for a few sessions, then start to do TWO steps before treating. Then three steps, and four steps. I think you get the progression.
When you get to the point that you are doing 7-8 steps before your next treat, and your dog is really doing great, then you can start to add in different movements. Maybe it’s turning, or zig-zaging around, or changing paces (walking normal, then slow, then fast). Make it different. When you start walking outside and you’re on the sidewalk, your dog is going to know exactly where you are going. So, you’ll have to switch it up by doing these fun little movements. Maybe add some obedience into your walk - Randomly ask your dog to sit, or down. Or quickly jog backwards and ask your dog to “come”! He’ll love it!
Once your dog is doing really well inside, you can start to add in controlled distractions (see video). Practice in the house with controlled distractions. Make sure you go to different rooms too! If you only ever practice in the kitchen, your dog will be really great.. in the kitchen! Go in a hallway, in a bedroom, in the basement. This is called “proofing”. Working with your dog in different environments and different scenarios. Different rooms.. You can add in different distractions, like walking past their toys, or a favorite human of theirs, or an open door (make sure their leash is on securely, of course!), or a full food bowl… You can practice your “Look” command, and your “Leave It” command during this time.
Now you’re at the point where your dog is rock solid with heeling in the house. You can start outside! Yay!! You’re ready!! How long will this take? That’s a gray area. Could take a couple days, could take a couple weeks. You’ll know your dog is ready because you’ll walk by your distractions and your dog won’t even look at them. He’ll be continuing to look at you. You’ll think to yourself - Geez, I wonder if he even saw that food bowl with treats in it.. Yep! He saw it! He’s CHOOSING not to look at it because he knows if he continues to walk next to you and look at you, he’ll get something even better (that yummy piece of chicken or cheese from your pocket!). This is when you’re ready to take it outside!!
So….. When you take your heeling outside, you’re starting at square one. Yep, start off with your “one-step” routine. The good part is that as you take your baby steps, the process will go much much faster. Your dog already knows this, you’ve taken the time to create a solid base with him on heeling. You’re just doing it now outside, where there can be uncontrolled distractions. When you start, start right off at the doorway as you're walking outside. Don’t wait until you’ve walked out your door and down your driveway and on to your sidewalk. Nope. Set the tone - Start immediately!! Actually, you should probably start the moment the leash is clipped on to the collar :)
What to do in the meantime? During this time that you’re working on “heel”, your dog is still going to need to be exercised, right? If at all possible, just play with your dog outside, vs. taking him on a walk. Play in the yard, or if you go to a park, or lots of playing in the house is great too!
Troubleshooting
Jumping up at your side for the treat
Right now, in the beginning, I wouldn’t worry too much about your dog jumping at your side to get the treat. This is actually kind of cool if you think about it. Your dog is super excited for that treat that’s in your hand! I’d much rather have it that way than the opposite (not at all interested)... It’s much easier to calm a dog down than it is to get a dog excited about something. You can use this to your advantage. I wouldn’t encourage it, but I would be happy about it. It will probably only last for the first few minutes of your walk.
Pulling Forward
If your dog thinks he hears the word “MUSH” each time you go on a walk, there are a number of things you can try. I’ve included a list of training tools at the bottom of this article that may be helpful. You can try those. You can also try tiring your dog out a bit before your walk - Maybe it’s playing fetch in the backyard, or tug in the house. Or working on obedience for 15 minutes prior. You can also make your walks less predictable. Don’t walk in a straight line - Zig-zag, go backwards, go fast, then normal. Include a lot of stops where you ask your dog to sit at your side, or lay down, or shake your paw. You can also walk in a tight circle. For this you’ll want to walk in towards your dog, so you're essentially using a body block, blocking him from going forward.
Stopping or sniffing the ground
If your dog wants to stop a lot, this is usually a distraction technique. They are deciding to stop - Oh, and guess what? That makes you stop too! How quickly they learn how to walk US! Here’s what I do with my dogs on walks… I decide when they get to sniff and when they don’t. I know for a dog, sniffing is a wonderful thing, they love it! My dogs would probably be sniffing every single thing on our walk if they could! I don’t want to take that away from them entirely, but I also want to cover some distance at a good pace too. So I will let them sniff, but I make it very clear when they can sniff and when they can’t. Here’s how we do it:
We’ll start off our walk at a brisk pace and I say “Heel”. No need to say it multiple times if you’re still walking. But, when I stop, I’ll ask them to sit. When I start walking again I will either say “Heel” or I’ll say “Free”. Free, to my dogs, means that they can have a loose leash and they can sniff, pee, do whatever - As long as they are still not pulling. We’ll walk maybe half a block or so, then we’ll stop. I’ll have them sit, and then we will go forward again with either a Heel or a Free. This makes it very clear to them so they don’t ever have to wonder if they are going to be sniffing or walking by my side.
Distracted by other dogs, squirrels, etc.
This is when your “Look” command comes in handy! We work on this a lot in our classes. And, in our "Reactive Rover" Class we work on something called "Doggy Zen". It's basically letting your dog think it's his choice to look at you, rather than you asking him to do it. It’s a pretty cool thing, and helps a TON on your walks!
Collar - You’ll want a reliable collar, one that they can’t slip out of (even if they pull backwards) and one that won’t accidentally unsnap while you’re walking. I like a regular ‘ol buckle collar, or a martingale collar.
Leash - A regular leather or nylon leash that is 4-6’ long. Please please don’t use a retractable leash. Like, ever. Okay, if you want to use it in the yard just to let your dog out to go potty, that’s okay. But never-ever on walks!
Treats - Super amazing treats! I like to use cut up cheese, hot dogs, chicken, steak (without seasonings). Really use the stuff they can’t possibly resist. There are some good freeze-dried treats on the market. Mix it up. Have about 4-5 different types of treats in your pocket or treat pouch. This way your dog won’t get bored, and never knows which treat they are going to get. Have plenty of treats because when you first start teaching your dog to walk nicely, you’re going to use treats galore!
Okay, that’s it! Yep that’s it! Believe me, you could spend hundreds of dollars at the pet store on fancy contraptions for walking your dog (and some of you may end up needing a little extra help with training tools - I’ve listed some below in this article). But for starting out, these will do just fine.
Let’s talk about where to practice first. You’re going to want to start inside your house. Yep! Inside! That might seem weird.. Putting your leash on your dog and gathering your treats, just to take a walk inside your house. But, it makes perfect sense. We always want to start off training new behaviors or commands where there are little to no distractions. So, why on earth would we start teaching our dogs something important, like “heel” outside - Where all of the distractions are? Let’s take baby steps. You have your dog’s whole life ahead of him. Start off on the right paw.
So, you have your dog leashed up and your treats ready. I like to walk with my dog on my left side because that’s what I’m used to. I have fun doing dog events and they always involve your dog on your left. You can choose to do one side or the other, or you can teach your dog to walk on either side - Which is great! What we want to avoid is our DOGS deciding which side to walk on. When that happens you’ll get a dog that zig-zag’s in front of you, possibly tripping you or stopping right in front of you. So, for now, for starting off, pick on side.
You can use your treat to lure your dog to your side. Don’t move your body to get to your dog’s side, let your dog do the moving. Remember, we are the ones training our dogs, haha! If your dog is on your LEFT side, keep your treats in your LEFT hand. Your leash will cross over your body and be held in your RIGHT hand. This may seem awkward at first, but once you get going, you’ll see how helpful it is. The reason we want our treats on the same side as our dog is because then we can simply angle our hand down to treat our dog when he’s in the right place. If I were to have my treats in my RIGHT hand, and my dog on my LEFT side, I will always be reaching over my body to treat my dog. I can bet that my dog is going to lean in front of me to get the treat, and I’m always going to be angling my body over to reach to my dog to treat him. You’ll see this in the video and it will make more sense. Also, if your treats are on the same side as your dog, when you reach down to treat him you’ll always be treating him while he is in the correct spot. Verses leaning over to treat him and then accidentally treating him when he is taking a step in front of you to grab at the treat from your opposite hand. So, remember - Keep your treats on the same side as your dog! It’s super helpful!
To start off you’re going to literally take one step and treat your dog. One step and treat. One step and treat. This constant reminder will help your dog understand that when he moves with you, and alongside you, he will get rewarded. Dogs learn very quickly that they get a treat for what they are doing.
You’re just going to do 2-3 of these “one step” movements at a time and then give your dog a short mental break. Maybe it’s petting them and telling them how smart they are, or it’s whipping out a tug rope and playing tug for a few seconds! Keep your dog engaged. The happier they are, the more they will want to walk with you!
In practicing this, you’ll find that your dog may start to look up at you between treats - This is AWESOME! This is exactly and totally what you want! If you find your dog looking up at you (without you asking him to), reward him for that for sure! This positive engagement is what we all strive for with our pups!
Ideally your leash will be loose. A good “U” in the leash is what we like to see. It’s some slack, but not dragging, and certainly not tight.
Keep your training sessions short and fun. A couple minutes here and there. You’ll start to find that your dog gets excited when he sees the leash come out!
Once you’ve practiced this “one-step” for a few sessions, then start to do TWO steps before treating. Then three steps, and four steps. I think you get the progression.
When you get to the point that you are doing 7-8 steps before your next treat, and your dog is really doing great, then you can start to add in different movements. Maybe it’s turning, or zig-zaging around, or changing paces (walking normal, then slow, then fast). Make it different. When you start walking outside and you’re on the sidewalk, your dog is going to know exactly where you are going. So, you’ll have to switch it up by doing these fun little movements. Maybe add some obedience into your walk - Randomly ask your dog to sit, or down. Or quickly jog backwards and ask your dog to “come”! He’ll love it!
Once your dog is doing really well inside, you can start to add in controlled distractions (see video). Practice in the house with controlled distractions. Make sure you go to different rooms too! If you only ever practice in the kitchen, your dog will be really great.. in the kitchen! Go in a hallway, in a bedroom, in the basement. This is called “proofing”. Working with your dog in different environments and different scenarios. Different rooms.. You can add in different distractions, like walking past their toys, or a favorite human of theirs, or an open door (make sure their leash is on securely, of course!), or a full food bowl… You can practice your “Look” command, and your “Leave It” command during this time.
Now you’re at the point where your dog is rock solid with heeling in the house. You can start outside! Yay!! You’re ready!! How long will this take? That’s a gray area. Could take a couple days, could take a couple weeks. You’ll know your dog is ready because you’ll walk by your distractions and your dog won’t even look at them. He’ll be continuing to look at you. You’ll think to yourself - Geez, I wonder if he even saw that food bowl with treats in it.. Yep! He saw it! He’s CHOOSING not to look at it because he knows if he continues to walk next to you and look at you, he’ll get something even better (that yummy piece of chicken or cheese from your pocket!). This is when you’re ready to take it outside!!
So….. When you take your heeling outside, you’re starting at square one. Yep, start off with your “one-step” routine. The good part is that as you take your baby steps, the process will go much much faster. Your dog already knows this, you’ve taken the time to create a solid base with him on heeling. You’re just doing it now outside, where there can be uncontrolled distractions. When you start, start right off at the doorway as you're walking outside. Don’t wait until you’ve walked out your door and down your driveway and on to your sidewalk. Nope. Set the tone - Start immediately!! Actually, you should probably start the moment the leash is clipped on to the collar :)
What to do in the meantime? During this time that you’re working on “heel”, your dog is still going to need to be exercised, right? If at all possible, just play with your dog outside, vs. taking him on a walk. Play in the yard, or if you go to a park, or lots of playing in the house is great too!
Troubleshooting
Jumping up at your side for the treat
Right now, in the beginning, I wouldn’t worry too much about your dog jumping at your side to get the treat. This is actually kind of cool if you think about it. Your dog is super excited for that treat that’s in your hand! I’d much rather have it that way than the opposite (not at all interested)... It’s much easier to calm a dog down than it is to get a dog excited about something. You can use this to your advantage. I wouldn’t encourage it, but I would be happy about it. It will probably only last for the first few minutes of your walk.
Pulling Forward
If your dog thinks he hears the word “MUSH” each time you go on a walk, there are a number of things you can try. I’ve included a list of training tools at the bottom of this article that may be helpful. You can try those. You can also try tiring your dog out a bit before your walk - Maybe it’s playing fetch in the backyard, or tug in the house. Or working on obedience for 15 minutes prior. You can also make your walks less predictable. Don’t walk in a straight line - Zig-zag, go backwards, go fast, then normal. Include a lot of stops where you ask your dog to sit at your side, or lay down, or shake your paw. You can also walk in a tight circle. For this you’ll want to walk in towards your dog, so you're essentially using a body block, blocking him from going forward.
Stopping or sniffing the ground
If your dog wants to stop a lot, this is usually a distraction technique. They are deciding to stop - Oh, and guess what? That makes you stop too! How quickly they learn how to walk US! Here’s what I do with my dogs on walks… I decide when they get to sniff and when they don’t. I know for a dog, sniffing is a wonderful thing, they love it! My dogs would probably be sniffing every single thing on our walk if they could! I don’t want to take that away from them entirely, but I also want to cover some distance at a good pace too. So I will let them sniff, but I make it very clear when they can sniff and when they can’t. Here’s how we do it:
We’ll start off our walk at a brisk pace and I say “Heel”. No need to say it multiple times if you’re still walking. But, when I stop, I’ll ask them to sit. When I start walking again I will either say “Heel” or I’ll say “Free”. Free, to my dogs, means that they can have a loose leash and they can sniff, pee, do whatever - As long as they are still not pulling. We’ll walk maybe half a block or so, then we’ll stop. I’ll have them sit, and then we will go forward again with either a Heel or a Free. This makes it very clear to them so they don’t ever have to wonder if they are going to be sniffing or walking by my side.
Distracted by other dogs, squirrels, etc.
This is when your “Look” command comes in handy! We work on this a lot in our classes. And, in our "Reactive Rover" Class we work on something called "Doggy Zen". It's basically letting your dog think it's his choice to look at you, rather than you asking him to do it. It’s a pretty cool thing, and helps a TON on your walks!
Training Tools for Walking Nicely on Leash
There are many things we can use or buy, to help our dogs walk better with us while outside. Believe me, you could spend as much money as you wanted to on the latest, greatest dog training tool that promises to make your dog walk nicely on leash! Here are my thoughts and suggestions..
Leashes
Go to any pet store and you’ll see a wall full of different types of leashes! I like three kinds - One for walking, one for safely hanging out in the yard and one for training recalls.
Leash for Walking - I like one kind, and one kind only, a regular ‘ol nylon or leather leash that is 4-6’ long. Get one thick enough so that it is easy enough to hold on to and strong enough for your own dog. Please do not get the retractable leashes. Those are just asking for trouble. Your dog will never learn to “heel” because sometimes they are at 5 feet, sometimes at 10 feet. There is zero consistency. Your dog can also sprint to the end of the leash, only go get “clotheslined” when he reaches the end. And, heaven forbid you get one of those tangled around your leg. They can leave some dangerous burns.
Leash for safely hanging out in the backyard - I like fences. I like leashes. They keep our dogs safe in our yards. I like a good old fashioned tie out if your dog is going to be in your yard for any amount of time (I do not advocate dogs being outside unattended - They are like kids.. Anything that can go wrong, will!). But, if you’re hanging out in your yard, enjoying the day, gardening, etc. a secure tie-out can be your dogs friend. Get the kind that your dog is unable to chew through, and have some fun “outside” toys within reach (so he doesn’t decide to start digging holes in your yard, because we all know how much they love to dig!).
Leash for recalls - I like to use a long, lightweight leash when I’m working on recalls with my dogs outside. Inside, you can manage without a leash. Simply because there are not as many distractions, and if your dog doesn’t come right away, he’s not going to get very far… But, outside, you want to slowly add distractions and still be able to have your dog understand that “come” is not optional!
Collars
Gobs and Gobs of collars! You can get just about any size and shape of collar. When my dogs are in the house, they go naked. I’ve seen too many stories of dogs getting the collars caught on things, especially in the crate, when the owner is gone :( My dogs also play pretty rough. Just like when I owned my daycare, I think that dogs should play with all accessories off. Teeth can get caught (and ripped out!) too easily… So, first rule, no collars inside.
Martingale - My favorite collar is called the Martingale. They even come with a quick-release nowadays. They were originally developed for Greyhounds. Dogs whose necks are bigger than their heads. If a Greyhound pulled backwards, a regular collar would easily slip over their heads and they would be loose. I like them because they are safe, but unlike a choke collar, they don’t continue to get tight around the dog’s neck.
Buckle - I also like regular buckle collars. I probably use these the most on my own dogs. Simple, but you can get them in just about any color or pattern you like!
Choke Collar - These are pretty old school. We had one for my little Border Collie when I was growing up. It was her daily wear collar (can you imagine now?). She even had her tags hanging from it… I don’t use these on a daily basis, but I do still use them occasionally. Very occasionally. I might use one if I’m working with a dog that is very strong and untrustworthy. Maybe it has gotten away from its owners while on walks and attacked another dog. Choke collars are strong and they have purpose. I don’t recommend using one, but if you have questions about them, I’m happy to talk to you.
Prong Collar - These look super midevil! Metal collars with prongs sticking out. These prongs can only be made for one thing, inflicting pain on a dog when the collar tightens up (when they pull, or when the owner pulls back). I have to tell you though, I have used a prong collar before. I used it on my own dog. My 120 pound Rottweiler, Wyatt. I was pregnant and he was larger and much stronger than me! If he saw something he wanted to run towards, there was no way I was going to negotiate him back. So, I used the prong collar. We went back to using a regular martingale when I was back to my normal self and felt comfortable taking him on walks again. Don’t worry, he was actually an angel on walks (he was a complete marshmallow of a dog in real life), but I didn’t want to take any chances. And, like many bully-type breeds, he was always under the microscope, so he had to be perfect 100% of the time, if you know what I mean…
Harnesses
I could probably write an entire article on the different harnesses that you can buy! But, I’m going to talk about two in general. The kind that allows/encourages pulling, and the kind that does not.
Pull Harness - These are the old fashioned harnesses. I use them all the time, when I’m doing Tracking with my dog. They are nice because your dog can pull as hard as they want, and the harness will not restrict their movement, nor will it put pressure on their throats.
No-Pull Harness - Not sure which ones these are? Just ask at the pet store and they’ll be able to direct you. These harnesses typically have a clip at the front. So, the leash clips near the dogs chest. The idea is to discourage pulling. Look for a harness that fits your own dog well. Thicker straps are usually more ideal because they will not chafe as much as thinner straps. Some even have padding.
There are many things we can use or buy, to help our dogs walk better with us while outside. Believe me, you could spend as much money as you wanted to on the latest, greatest dog training tool that promises to make your dog walk nicely on leash! Here are my thoughts and suggestions..
Leashes
Go to any pet store and you’ll see a wall full of different types of leashes! I like three kinds - One for walking, one for safely hanging out in the yard and one for training recalls.
Leash for Walking - I like one kind, and one kind only, a regular ‘ol nylon or leather leash that is 4-6’ long. Get one thick enough so that it is easy enough to hold on to and strong enough for your own dog. Please do not get the retractable leashes. Those are just asking for trouble. Your dog will never learn to “heel” because sometimes they are at 5 feet, sometimes at 10 feet. There is zero consistency. Your dog can also sprint to the end of the leash, only go get “clotheslined” when he reaches the end. And, heaven forbid you get one of those tangled around your leg. They can leave some dangerous burns.
Leash for safely hanging out in the backyard - I like fences. I like leashes. They keep our dogs safe in our yards. I like a good old fashioned tie out if your dog is going to be in your yard for any amount of time (I do not advocate dogs being outside unattended - They are like kids.. Anything that can go wrong, will!). But, if you’re hanging out in your yard, enjoying the day, gardening, etc. a secure tie-out can be your dogs friend. Get the kind that your dog is unable to chew through, and have some fun “outside” toys within reach (so he doesn’t decide to start digging holes in your yard, because we all know how much they love to dig!).
Leash for recalls - I like to use a long, lightweight leash when I’m working on recalls with my dogs outside. Inside, you can manage without a leash. Simply because there are not as many distractions, and if your dog doesn’t come right away, he’s not going to get very far… But, outside, you want to slowly add distractions and still be able to have your dog understand that “come” is not optional!
Collars
Gobs and Gobs of collars! You can get just about any size and shape of collar. When my dogs are in the house, they go naked. I’ve seen too many stories of dogs getting the collars caught on things, especially in the crate, when the owner is gone :( My dogs also play pretty rough. Just like when I owned my daycare, I think that dogs should play with all accessories off. Teeth can get caught (and ripped out!) too easily… So, first rule, no collars inside.
Martingale - My favorite collar is called the Martingale. They even come with a quick-release nowadays. They were originally developed for Greyhounds. Dogs whose necks are bigger than their heads. If a Greyhound pulled backwards, a regular collar would easily slip over their heads and they would be loose. I like them because they are safe, but unlike a choke collar, they don’t continue to get tight around the dog’s neck.
Buckle - I also like regular buckle collars. I probably use these the most on my own dogs. Simple, but you can get them in just about any color or pattern you like!
Choke Collar - These are pretty old school. We had one for my little Border Collie when I was growing up. It was her daily wear collar (can you imagine now?). She even had her tags hanging from it… I don’t use these on a daily basis, but I do still use them occasionally. Very occasionally. I might use one if I’m working with a dog that is very strong and untrustworthy. Maybe it has gotten away from its owners while on walks and attacked another dog. Choke collars are strong and they have purpose. I don’t recommend using one, but if you have questions about them, I’m happy to talk to you.
Prong Collar - These look super midevil! Metal collars with prongs sticking out. These prongs can only be made for one thing, inflicting pain on a dog when the collar tightens up (when they pull, or when the owner pulls back). I have to tell you though, I have used a prong collar before. I used it on my own dog. My 120 pound Rottweiler, Wyatt. I was pregnant and he was larger and much stronger than me! If he saw something he wanted to run towards, there was no way I was going to negotiate him back. So, I used the prong collar. We went back to using a regular martingale when I was back to my normal self and felt comfortable taking him on walks again. Don’t worry, he was actually an angel on walks (he was a complete marshmallow of a dog in real life), but I didn’t want to take any chances. And, like many bully-type breeds, he was always under the microscope, so he had to be perfect 100% of the time, if you know what I mean…
Harnesses
I could probably write an entire article on the different harnesses that you can buy! But, I’m going to talk about two in general. The kind that allows/encourages pulling, and the kind that does not.
Pull Harness - These are the old fashioned harnesses. I use them all the time, when I’m doing Tracking with my dog. They are nice because your dog can pull as hard as they want, and the harness will not restrict their movement, nor will it put pressure on their throats.
No-Pull Harness - Not sure which ones these are? Just ask at the pet store and they’ll be able to direct you. These harnesses typically have a clip at the front. So, the leash clips near the dogs chest. The idea is to discourage pulling. Look for a harness that fits your own dog well. Thicker straps are usually more ideal because they will not chafe as much as thinner straps. Some even have padding.
Electric Collars and Noisemakers
These are two of my least favorite training tools. I’m usually going to work on positive reinforcement. I believe it works better and faster than aversive training. There are a few problems with using electric shock collars and noise makers when training, and especially when going out on walks. 1. Your dog may learn to stop what they’re doing (pulling), but the REASON they are doing it still remains. It’s kind of like putting a bandaid on the problem. The problem will come back, and it may come back even worse - and you may find other behaviors pop up because they are no longer allowed to do that one. If your dog is pulling on the leash (to see another dog) and you shock him, or startle him with a noise maker, he may stop pulling. But, he may not understand the reason he was shocked. For all he knows, he could have gotten shocked because that other dog was there. You could potentially create a dog that now becomes reactive to other dogs because he’s associating the shock with seeing another dog. Make sense? It happens more than you think… I do not recommend these training tools, especially for walking on leash.
Your voice and body
These are great tools you can use when you’re training your dog to walk nicely on leash! A happy, positive voice will help keep your dog engaged. Couple that with handing him a yummy treat when he’s in the right place (walking next to you) and you’ve got it made! Walks should be this fun time spent between the two of you. Talk to your dog, enjoy yourselves!
Alternately, your voice can help to create stress. If your dog sees another dog and starts to get all excited while out on a walk, and you pull back on the leash and start saying “it’s okay, it’s okay”. Or, even worse, yell at your dog, he’s going to think - oh gosh! This is a bad situation, I better start barking at that dog (or person, or car, or.. insert whatever your dog is barking at). One thing that I’m always telling my clients is - If your dog is doing something he shouldn’t, oftentimes the best option is NOT to talk! Your stress or frustration or confusion will come through your voice.
These are two of my least favorite training tools. I’m usually going to work on positive reinforcement. I believe it works better and faster than aversive training. There are a few problems with using electric shock collars and noise makers when training, and especially when going out on walks. 1. Your dog may learn to stop what they’re doing (pulling), but the REASON they are doing it still remains. It’s kind of like putting a bandaid on the problem. The problem will come back, and it may come back even worse - and you may find other behaviors pop up because they are no longer allowed to do that one. If your dog is pulling on the leash (to see another dog) and you shock him, or startle him with a noise maker, he may stop pulling. But, he may not understand the reason he was shocked. For all he knows, he could have gotten shocked because that other dog was there. You could potentially create a dog that now becomes reactive to other dogs because he’s associating the shock with seeing another dog. Make sense? It happens more than you think… I do not recommend these training tools, especially for walking on leash.
Your voice and body
These are great tools you can use when you’re training your dog to walk nicely on leash! A happy, positive voice will help keep your dog engaged. Couple that with handing him a yummy treat when he’s in the right place (walking next to you) and you’ve got it made! Walks should be this fun time spent between the two of you. Talk to your dog, enjoy yourselves!
Alternately, your voice can help to create stress. If your dog sees another dog and starts to get all excited while out on a walk, and you pull back on the leash and start saying “it’s okay, it’s okay”. Or, even worse, yell at your dog, he’s going to think - oh gosh! This is a bad situation, I better start barking at that dog (or person, or car, or.. insert whatever your dog is barking at). One thing that I’m always telling my clients is - If your dog is doing something he shouldn’t, oftentimes the best option is NOT to talk! Your stress or frustration or confusion will come through your voice.
Treats!
Yay for treats! When you’re training your dog inside, or just giving him a treat because he’s so cute, you can use whatever you’d like. Store bought treats or human food. But, when you’re outside or away from home, use really awesome, high-value treats! Cut up chicken, hot dogs, cheese, unseasoned steak. Make it something they can’t possibly resist! Your dog will be more motivated to do what you’re asking and your more likely to get the response you’re looking for.
When I’m enrolled in a group class, I usually have 4-5 different treats in my pouch. This way my dog won’t get bored with the same thing each time. He never knows which one he’s going to get! I’ll have different flavors and textures in there. Sometimes I’ll even put a handful of his kibble (dog food) in there. It will get covered with the oils and flavors of the other treats, so it will become even more appealing!
Exercise
As long as your dog is over two years (ish), getting the right amount of exercise is important, and can help you on your walks! Try to keep your walks as consistent as you can. That doesn't mean the exact same time, or the exact same path. That means you expect your dog to have good manners while on your walk. And you go on a walk every day. You don’t skip a day because you had to work longer than you thought, or the weather isn’t perfect. Most dogs really require regular exercise! Many of the breeds today have been bred to work for most of the day! The more consistent you can be on your walks, the better your dog will be during the walks!
Obedience Training
This will only help on your walks! Practicing your sits, downs, attention, leave it. There are all sorts of things! Don’t make your walk about getting as far as you can, or as quickly as you can. Mix it up a bit! Have fun with it! If your dog has a good training base, he will be more engaged with you and will listen to you nicely when you’re outside.
Essential Oils
If our dog gets nervous when you’re out of the house, you can try using essential oils. Be sure to use the real oils, not the fake perfume. I’m sure there are many different oils that are “calming”, but my favorite is Lavender. Plain ‘ol Lavender oil. Our dogs are very sensitive to this, so be sure to use a teeny amount. I like to take about ½ a drop and rub it on my finger tips. Then give my dog a slow little massage behind his ears. Do this about 10 minutes before you’re going to go on your walk (or anything that may create anxiety for your dog). It’s one of those things that may or may not help - but it’s worth a try because it won’t hurt!
Giene Keyes
Giene Keyes is the owner of Moon Dog Training, LLC, providing positive in-home training, behavior consultations and group classes. After receiving “Best of Madison'' multiple years in a row, Giene sold her dog daycare to focus on her dog behavior work. Giene has been working with pets and their owners for over 30 years. She is a professional animal trainer and behavior specialist in Southern Wisconsin. Giene divides her time between teaching group classes and private lessons – Specializing in manners and aggression cases. Giene works with vets, rescue groups and shelters, evaluating dogs for adoption, developing Canine Aggression Management Programs, and educating staff on dog language and behaviors. She consults for dog daycares and training companies by educating staff on dog body language, cues, managing a pack, difficult dogs and much more. She provides behavior consultations for service dog organizations and rescue groups in the Midwest. She has been an Instructor with the American Red Cross in Pet CPR and First Aid, a Certified Canine Good Citizen Evaluator with the American Kennel Club, and a Licensed Judge with the WI Dept of Ag, Trade & Consumer Protection. Giene is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer. She routinely presents seminars on dog behavior and training, as well as chicken training seminars to promote team building. Giene has been a regular guest on popular Madison radio shows and evening newscasts. Giene has also been featured in numerous local magazines, including the cover for Wisconsin Woman. Giene is a published author (see her Chicken Training Book!) and loves demonstrating to people how clever dogs, chickens and pigs can be.
Yay for treats! When you’re training your dog inside, or just giving him a treat because he’s so cute, you can use whatever you’d like. Store bought treats or human food. But, when you’re outside or away from home, use really awesome, high-value treats! Cut up chicken, hot dogs, cheese, unseasoned steak. Make it something they can’t possibly resist! Your dog will be more motivated to do what you’re asking and your more likely to get the response you’re looking for.
When I’m enrolled in a group class, I usually have 4-5 different treats in my pouch. This way my dog won’t get bored with the same thing each time. He never knows which one he’s going to get! I’ll have different flavors and textures in there. Sometimes I’ll even put a handful of his kibble (dog food) in there. It will get covered with the oils and flavors of the other treats, so it will become even more appealing!
Exercise
As long as your dog is over two years (ish), getting the right amount of exercise is important, and can help you on your walks! Try to keep your walks as consistent as you can. That doesn't mean the exact same time, or the exact same path. That means you expect your dog to have good manners while on your walk. And you go on a walk every day. You don’t skip a day because you had to work longer than you thought, or the weather isn’t perfect. Most dogs really require regular exercise! Many of the breeds today have been bred to work for most of the day! The more consistent you can be on your walks, the better your dog will be during the walks!
Obedience Training
This will only help on your walks! Practicing your sits, downs, attention, leave it. There are all sorts of things! Don’t make your walk about getting as far as you can, or as quickly as you can. Mix it up a bit! Have fun with it! If your dog has a good training base, he will be more engaged with you and will listen to you nicely when you’re outside.
Essential Oils
If our dog gets nervous when you’re out of the house, you can try using essential oils. Be sure to use the real oils, not the fake perfume. I’m sure there are many different oils that are “calming”, but my favorite is Lavender. Plain ‘ol Lavender oil. Our dogs are very sensitive to this, so be sure to use a teeny amount. I like to take about ½ a drop and rub it on my finger tips. Then give my dog a slow little massage behind his ears. Do this about 10 minutes before you’re going to go on your walk (or anything that may create anxiety for your dog). It’s one of those things that may or may not help - but it’s worth a try because it won’t hurt!
Giene Keyes
Giene Keyes is the owner of Moon Dog Training, LLC, providing positive in-home training, behavior consultations and group classes. After receiving “Best of Madison'' multiple years in a row, Giene sold her dog daycare to focus on her dog behavior work. Giene has been working with pets and their owners for over 30 years. She is a professional animal trainer and behavior specialist in Southern Wisconsin. Giene divides her time between teaching group classes and private lessons – Specializing in manners and aggression cases. Giene works with vets, rescue groups and shelters, evaluating dogs for adoption, developing Canine Aggression Management Programs, and educating staff on dog language and behaviors. She consults for dog daycares and training companies by educating staff on dog body language, cues, managing a pack, difficult dogs and much more. She provides behavior consultations for service dog organizations and rescue groups in the Midwest. She has been an Instructor with the American Red Cross in Pet CPR and First Aid, a Certified Canine Good Citizen Evaluator with the American Kennel Club, and a Licensed Judge with the WI Dept of Ag, Trade & Consumer Protection. Giene is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer. She routinely presents seminars on dog behavior and training, as well as chicken training seminars to promote team building. Giene has been a regular guest on popular Madison radio shows and evening newscasts. Giene has also been featured in numerous local magazines, including the cover for Wisconsin Woman. Giene is a published author (see her Chicken Training Book!) and loves demonstrating to people how clever dogs, chickens and pigs can be.
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