training tools for walking nicely on leash

There are many things we can use or buy, to help our dogs walk better with us while outside. Believe me, you could spend as much money as you wanted to on the latest, greatest dog training tool that promises to make your dog walk nicely on leash! Here are my thoughts and suggestions..

Leashes
Go to any pet store and you’ll see a wall full of different types of leashes! I like three kinds - One for walking, one for safely hanging out in the yard and one for training recalls.

Leash for Walking - I like one kind, and one kind only, a regular ‘ol nylon or leather leash that is 4-6’ long. Get one thick enough so that it is easy enough to hold on to and strong enough for your own dog. Please do not get the retractable leashes. Those are just asking for trouble. Your dog will never learn to “heel” because sometimes they are at 5 feet, sometimes at 10 feet. There is zero consistency. Your dog can also sprint to the end of the leash, only go get “clotheslined” when he reaches the end.  And, heaven forbid you get one of those tangled around your leg. They can leave some dangerous burns.

Leash for safely hanging out in the backyard - I like fences. I like leashes. They keep our dogs safe in our yards. I like a good old fashioned tie out if your dog is going to be in your yard for any amount of time (I do not advocate dogs being outside unattended - They are like kids.. Anything that can go wrong, will!). But, if you’re hanging out in your yard, enjoying the day, gardening, etc. a secure tie-out can be your dogs friend. Get the kind that your dog is unable to chew through, and have some fun “outside” toys within reach (so he doesn’t decide to start digging holes in your yard, because we all know how much they love to dig!). 

Leash for recalls - I like to use a long, lightweight leash when I’m working on recalls with my dogs outside. Inside, you can manage without a leash. Simply because there are not as many distractions, and if your dog doesn’t come right away, he’s not going to get very far… But, outside, you want to slowly add distractions and still be able to have your dog understand that “come” is not optional!

Collars
Gobs and Gobs of collars! You can get just about any size and shape of collar. When my dogs are in the house, they go naked. I’ve seen too many stories of dogs getting the collars caught on things, especially in the crate, when the owner is gone :( My dogs also play pretty rough. Just like when I owned my daycare, I think that dogs should play with all accessories off. Teeth can get caught (and ripped out!) too easily… So, first rule, no collars inside.

Martingale - My favorite collar is called the Martingale. They even come with a quick-release nowadays. They were originally developed for Greyhounds. Dogs whose necks are bigger than their heads. If a Greyhound pulled backwards, a regular collar would easily slip over their heads and they would be loose. I like them because they are safe, but unlike a choke collar, they don’t continue to get tight around the dog’s neck.

Flat Buckle - I also like regular buckle collars. I probably use these the most on my own dogs. Simple, but you can get them in just about any color or pattern you like!

Choke Collar - These are pretty old school. We had one for my little Border Collie when I was growing up. It was her daily wear collar (can you imagine now?). She even had her tags hanging from it…  I don’t use these on a daily basis, but I do still use them occasionally. Very occasionally. I might use one if I’m working with a dog that is very strong and untrustworthy. Maybe it has gotten away from its owners while on walks and attacked another dog. Choke collars are strong and they have purpose. I don’t recommend using one, but if you have questions about them, I’m happy to talk to you.

Prong Collar - These look pretty medieval! Metal collars with prongs sticking out. These prongs can only be made for one thing, inflicting pain on a dog when the collar tightens up (when they pull, or when the owner pulls back). I have to tell you though, I have used a prong collar before. I used it on my own dog. My 120 pound Rottweiler, Wyatt. I was pregnant and he was larger and much stronger than me! If he saw something he wanted to run towards, there was no way I was going to negotiate him back. So, I used the prong collar. We went back to using a regular martingale when I was back to my normal self and felt comfortable taking him on walks again. Don’t worry, he was actually an angel on walks (he was a complete marshmallow of a dog in real life), but I didn’t want to take any chances. And, like many bully-type breeds, he was always under the microscope, so he had to be perfect 100% of the time, if you know what I mean…


Harnesses
I could probably write an entire article on the different harnesses that you can buy! But, I’m going to talk about two in general. The kind that allows/encourages pulling, and the kind that does not.

Pull Harness - These are the old fashioned harnesses. I use them all the time, when I’m doing Tracking with my dog. They are nice because your dog can pull as hard as they want, and the harness will not restrict their movement, nor will it put pressure on their throats.

No-Pull Harness - Not sure which ones these are? Just ask at the pet store and they’ll be able to direct you. These harnesses typically have a clip at the front. So, the leash clips near the dogs chest. The idea is to discourage pulling. Look for a harness that fits your own dog well. Thicker straps are usually more ideal because they will not chafe as much as thinner straps. Some even have padding. 

Electric Collars and Noisemakers
These are two of my least favorite training tools. I’m usually going to work on positive reinforcement. I believe it works better and faster than aversive training. There are a few problems with using electric shock collars and noise makers when training, and especially when going out on walks. 1. Your dog may learn to stop what they’re doing, but the REASON they are doing it still remains. It’s kind of like putting a bandaid on the problem. The problem will come back, and it may come back even worse (and you may find other behaviors pop up because they are no longer allowed to do that one). If your dog is pulling on the leash (to see another dog) and you shock him, or startle him with a noise maker, he may stop pulling. But, he may not understand the reason he was shocked. For all he knows, he could have gotten shocked because that other dog was there. You could potentially create a dog that now becomes reactive to other dogs because he’s associating the shock with seeing another dog. Make sense? It happens more than you think…

Your voice and body
These are great tools you can use when you’re training your dog to walk nicely on leash! A happy, positive voice will help keep your dog engaged. Couple that with handing him a yummy treat when he’s in the right place (walking next to you) and you’ve got it made! Walks should be this fun time spent between the two of you. Talk to your dog, enjoy yourselves! 

Alternately, your voice can help to create stress. If your dog sees another dog and starts to get all excited while out on a walk, and you pull back on the leash and start saying “it’s okay, it’s okay”. Or, even worse, yell at your dog, he’s going to think - oh gosh! This is a bad situation, I better start barking at that dog (or person, or car, or.. insert whatever your dog is barking at). One thing that I’m always telling my clients is - If your dog is doing something he shouldn’t, oftentimes the best option is NOT to talk! Your stress or frustration or confusion will come through your voice. 

Treats!
Yay for treats! When you’re training your dog inside, or just giving him a treat because he’s so cute, you can use whatever you’d like. Store bought treats or human food. But, when you’re outside or away from home, use really awesome, high-value treats!  Cut up chicken, hot dogs, cheese, unseasoned steak. Make it something they can’t possibly resist! Your dog will be more motivated to do what you’re asking and you're more likely to get the response you’re looking for. 

When I’m enrolled in a group class, I usually have 4-5 different treats in my pouch. This way my dog won’t get bored with the same thing each time. He never knows which one he’s going to get! I’ll have different flavors and textures in there. Sometimes I’ll even put a handful of his kibble (dog food) in there. It will get covered with the oils and flavors of the other treats, so it will become even more appealing!

Exercise
As long as your dog is over two years (ish), getting the right amount of exercise is important, and can help you on your walks! Try to keep your walks as consistent as you can. That doesn't mean the exact same time, or the exact same path. That means you expect your dog to have good manners while on your walk. And you go on a walk every day. You don’t skip a day because you had to work longer than you thought, or the weather isn’t perfect. Most dogs really require regular exercise! Many of the breeds today have been bred to work for most of the day! The more consistent you can be on your walks, the better your dog will be during the walks!

Obedience Training
This will only help on your walks! Practicing your sits, downs, attention, leave it. There are all sorts of things! Don’t make your walk about getting as far as you can, or as quickly as you can. Mix it up a bit! Have fun with it! If your dog has a good training base, he will be more engaged with you and will listen to you nicely when you’re outside.

Essential Oils
​If our dog gets nervous when you’re out of the house, you can try using essential oils. Be sure to use the real oils, not the fake perfume. I’m sure there are many different oils that are “calming”, but my favorite is Lavender. Plain ‘ol Lavender oil. Our dogs are very sensitive to this, so be sure to use a teeny amount. I like to take about ½ a drop and rub it on my finger tips. Then give my dog a slow little massage behind his ears. Do this about 10 minutes before you’re going to go on your walk (or anything that may create anxiety for your dog). It’s one of those things that may or may not help - but it’s worth a try because it won’t hurt!


Giene Keyes

Giene Keyes is the owner of Moon Dog Training, LLC, providing positive in-home training, behavior consultations and group classes. After receiving “Best of Madison'' multiple years in a row, Giene sold her dog daycare to focus on her dog behavior work.  Giene has been working with pets and their owners for over 30 years.  She is a professional animal trainer and behavior specialist in Southern Wisconsin. Giene divides her time between teaching group classes and private lessons – Specializing in manners and aggression cases.  Giene works with vets, rescue groups and shelters, evaluating dogs for adoption, developing Canine Aggression Management Programs, and educating staff on dog language and behaviors.  She consults for dog daycares and training companies by educating staff on dog body language, cues, managing a pack, difficult dogs and much more. She provides behavior consultations for service dog organizations and rescue groups in the Midwest.  She has been an Instructor with the American Red Cross in Pet CPR and First Aid, a Certified Canine Good Citizen Evaluator with the American Kennel Club, and a Licensed Judge with the WI Dept of Ag, Trade & Consumer Protection. Giene is a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer.  She routinely presents seminars on dog behavior and training, as well as chicken training seminars to promote team building.  Giene has been a regular guest on popular Madison radio shows and evening newscasts. Giene has also been featured in numerous local magazines, including the cover for Wisconsin Woman. Giene is a published author (see her Chicken Training Book!) and loves demonstrating to people how clever dogs, chickens and pigs can be.

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